Touch-up paint

knsstang · Post by **knsstang** » Thu Jan 12, 2006 6:02 pm

Yes I need gold paint. Is it the exact paint used by mclaren? I love the color of the car and get many compliments on the color. I am scared to have the local paint shop mix the color( I don't want it a shade different). Do you have enough for the entire car?

Post by **negusm** » Thu Jan 12, 2006 6:38 pm

Royal Gold Metallic - 1989 & 1990 - Ditzler Mix # 26085

Of course the original paint was Sikkens....I don't know what the Sikkens code is.

-Mike

Sandy · Post by **Sandy** » Thu Jan 12, 2006 7:13 pm

1984 – 1990 ascMcLaren Paint Colors

Atlantic Blue – (1986 Lincoln “Shadow Blue” – Code 7C)
AzurA Blue – (1986 Merkur XR4Ti “AzurE Blue” – Code OT)
Jubba Blue -
Paris Blue #1 – (1985 Merkur XR4Ti “Paris Blue” – Code 03)
Paris Blue #2 – (1987 Nissan “Bright Blue” – Code 426)
Bright Regatta Blue – (1988 Ford Ranger/Aerostar “Bright Blue” – Code 3E)
HOT Yellow – (Seat {European Car} – 1994-2004 “Ovni Yellow” – Code SES1H Sikkens Code)
Dino Yellow – (1993 Mustang Feature Car “Canary Yellow” – Code BZ)
Keweenau White & ASC White are Identical
Aquamarine – (1992 & 1993 Ford Festiva / 1994 Ford Aspire “Aqua”– Code SE)
Coral Red – (Nissan 2000-2002 “Cranberry Pink” – Home Market Only NISAX7 Sikkens Code 348B6 – Japanese Market Only Color on “Cube” Mini Van.)
Red-Fox – (1987 Merkur XR4Ti “Regal Red” – Code 0O)
Candy Red – (1988 Toyota Supra “Red Pearl” – Code 3H1)
Black Cherry – (1985 Cadillac “Black-Cherry” – Code 99)
Royal Gold – (1989/1990 Jeep “Sand-Glow” – Code HY3 &
Chrysler of France “Silver Platine” – Code CF9570 & 1989 Merkur XR4Ti “Tuscany Gold” – Code 08)
Summer Tan – (Ford Truck 1988 “Light Chestnut” – Code 9T)
Alpine Green – (Ford Truck – 1988 “Alpine Green” – Code 4U)
Jet Black – (Universal Black – Code 242)
Sterling Silver – (1983 Ford Escort “Silver Clearcoat” – Code 1Q)
Gunmetal – (1986 Cadillac “Academy Gray” – Code 84)
British Racing Green – (1975-1977 Truimph “British Racing Green” – Code HAA – DuPont Color Code 45102)

REDS:
Bright Red & Porsche’s Guards Red are one in the same.
Muscat Red & Red Snapper are one in the same.
Bright Red = FA87:BR – Porsche Guards Red = POR 027
Muscat Red & Red Snapper are the same as Merkur XR4Ti “Radiant Red” of 1989 (Code OP) and Ford’s “Vermillion” – (Code 021 of 1992.)

knsstang · Post by **knsstang** » Thu Jan 12, 2006 11:58 pm

Will those codes match perfect or do you think there will be a difference do to a different brand of paint?

Post by **negusm** » Fri Jan 13, 2006 1:40 am

knsstang wrote:Will those codes match perfect or do you think there will be a difference do to a different brand of paint?

Go with Sikens paint and use the code Royal Gold HY3 code. If you want a perfect match, I wouldn't switch paint brands.

However, if you REALLY want perfection. Go to a Ferrari or Porsche dealer and ask them who touches up their cars. Some people can do amazing touch up work.

-Mike

PetesPonies · Post by **PetesPonies** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:42 pm

you will never get a perfect match when paint is mixed. Plus, there is fading that happens. A undetectable paint match is al least 50% the ability of the painter to fool your eyes.

Sandy · Post by **Sandy** » Sun Jan 15, 2006 3:59 pm

Very very true !

tfs2121 · Post by **tfs2121** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:29 pm

nice to see your still around ken... im looking foward to this years dream cruise hope to see you and all of your friends there again. i might not have my car there this year as it may be taken apart time for a new motor...

ps sandy you should have known that this was the guy with the gold car he posted after you saw the pics of his car from woodward and yes its to die for in person verry nice car

Post by **negusm** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:40 pm

tfs2121 wrote:nice to see your still around ken... im looking foward to this years dream cruise hope to see you and all of your friends there again. i might not have my car there this year as it may be taken apart time for a new motor...

ps sandy you should have known that this was the guy with the gold car he posted after you saw the pics of his car from woodward and yes its to die for in person verry nice car

Why do you need a new motor?

-Mike

tfs2121 · Post by **tfs2121** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 4:43 pm

120K she dont run like she use to

Post by **negusm** » Tue Jan 17, 2006 5:32 pm

tfs2121 wrote:120K she dont run like she use to

120k miles is nothing for a 302.

Peter, you already have a 5.0 Roller motor. Just take it out, do a tear down and rebuild it with new rings, bearings and maybe better pistons and rods if you really want a bump in compression. I bet when you pull the motor apart, you will see the original factory cross hatching on the cylinders. You shouldn't even need to bore it or turn the crank.

People seem to think that motor's "wear out"....like they are some delicate piece of machinery. Very few 302s truly need to be yanked and replaced.

What did your compression check tell you? If your numbers are good, a new engine isn't going to buy you much. You can swap on better heads, intake, etc and probably as far ahead of the game.

I just don't understand why people haven't learned that keeping the original block with a car can double or triple its value down the road. Years ago, classic Mustangs were treated the SAME way. Now look at everyone scrambling to relocated "original" equipment.

My car has 80k miles on the engine. I drove it hard, like it was junk, the owner's before me obviously abused it quite abit too. My dad did a compression check on the engine sometime after my wreck and the thing holds compression really close to factory specs. The reason why "it doesn't run like it use to" is that my carb needs rebuilding and there are vacuum leaks everywhere.

-Mike

Post by **negusm** » Wed Jan 18, 2006 2:36 am

Sorry to get on a rant.

Peter, I'm not trying to get down on you, I was young once and had great plans for tearing into my asc once....but then I found out how rare it was and started thinking about the other classic cars my family was playing around with....and how they were worth more but not even 1/10 as rare.

-Mike

PetesPonies · Post by **PetesPonies** » Wed Jan 18, 2006 1:08 pm

because of low pressure oil rings instituted in 1985-on, most 5.0 HO blocks have little if any cylinder wear. Most still have honing marks showing after 100K+ miles. That is one reason a 5.0 HO engine is an easy and inexpensive rebuild.

tfs2121 · Post by **tfs2121** » Wed Jan 18, 2006 5:05 pm

mike i think you miss understood me when i said new motor i ment i was going to rebuild the one thats in it. i would never seperate the block thats in it from the car. and you guys are verry right when i had the heads off at 15K there wasint even a carbon ridge at the top of the cylinders

she leeks alot of oil and some anti freeze id like to get my whole engine bay back to looking normal after the fire i had a year and a half ago

thanks for all of your guys comments

Post by **negusm** » Wed Jan 18, 2006 6:58 pm

tfs2121 wrote:mike i think you miss understood me when i said new motor i ment i was going to rebuild the one thats in it. i would never seperate the block thats in it from the car. and you guys are verry right when i had the heads off at 15K there wasint even a carbon ridge at the top of the cylinders

she leeks alot of oil and some anti freeze id like to get my whole engine bay back to looking normal after the fire i had a year and a half ago

thanks for all of your guys comments

Well, that's a totally different story. I plan on doing the same thing to my car. Depending on what I feel like, I may swap the pistons, rods and crank for something hotter....I won't do anything on the outside though. My car leaks some oil on the underside.

I got her started yesterday and sprang a fuel leak.

Leaks Leaks Leaks everywhere.

-Mike

ascMcLaren Enthusiasts

Touch-up paint

Touch-up paint

touch-up paint

Re: touch-up paint